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Volume CXXXIII, Number 10
November 16, 2001
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Foodie Fission: Kerry considers Bangkok Garden
KERRY ELSON
STAFF WRITER

Believe me, I am as shocked as you are. I was walking down Maine Street when all of a sudden my colleague and fellow Ferocious Foodie, Lauren, disappeared. Searching for clues that would indicate her whereabouts, I noticed pink slip-on Puma tracks trailing into the woods. All I may assume is that she wishes to have a few days of relaxation in the New England jungle.
As a result of my colleague's absence, I must compose this review by myself.

You may note a difference in writing style: that is because I have taken control of this enterprise completely. Completely! One may recall the old adage, "when the cat's away, the mice will play." Indeed. Once given a taste of freedom, this mouse may never allow herself to be cloistered in a measly hole-in-the-wall again.

Bangkok Garden, conjoined to the antiques mall at the end of Maine Street, offers copious Thai dishes in a pleasant and authentically decorated setting. High wooden ceilings are adorned with Thai tapestries and ornate fans. Unpainted brick walls and large windows evoke an urban flavor; dining here is a refreshing respite from Bowdoin's rural Maine setting. Felicity enthusiasts will note that this establishment resembles Megan and Sean's New York loft. Bangkok Garden brings that WB drama to life, thus pleasing an ardent fan of UNY love triangles!

Flapping arms and scrunched faces reflected a lack of decisiveness among our group--the small-print menu is the size of my town's phone directory. Patient servers dressed in "native" Thai garb attempted to help us make our choices, and we finally selected fresh spring rolls and chicken satay as shared appetizer plates.

Service is very fast: almost as soon as the selections rolled off our tongues, their physical form had arrived. Spring rolls were neatly wrapped and contained very fresh, although somewhat homogenous vegetables. The very spicy accompanying sauce would have been described as "luscious," by my fellow Foodie if she hadn't been M.I.A. She would have further gushed that the sauce's spice "perfectly heated the little package." The satay resembled oblong chicken patties, and though it was tasty and well spiced, this dish was also unusual in its "hamburger-on-a-skewer" presentation.

Soups were equally pleasing. Chunks of vegetables and piquant dumplings floated in the anise-flavored broth of the Thai Wonton Soup. A foodie friend described this soup as "yummy." The appropriately named Yum Soup was also well received by our party; however, this Foodie was turned off not by its intense heat but its excess oil.

Most dishes at Bangkok Garden are a variation on a simple formula: meat and vegetables + sauce + rice or noodles. This Foodie's Pineapple Chicken did not arrive in a pineapple shell as promised; nevertheless, its sweet and spicy flavors were well balanced and the vegetables were fresh.

Creamy curries were most popular among the group for their subtle flavor and smooth sauce consistency. Some sauces that dress the previously mentioned "Bangkok Garden Formula" were cloudy and thick, not clear and brothy as desired. Once tasted, the Foodies recognized those dishes' freshness, yet the food did have a glazed, day-old appearance.

Be prepared to take some of the meal back to your dorm. Portions seem reasonable in their shallow bowls, but accompanying rice extends the number of servings each dish supplies. If one is desperate for Thai food, visit Bangkok Garden. Remember, however, that Thanksgiving is only two weeks away; and if you are returning home to a favorite Thai food vendor, wait until you get there to sink your teeth into authentic Thai cuisine.

Rating: 2.5 out of 4