Volume CXXXI, Number 21 April 12, 2002 f

Pedro O'Hara's unites ethnic cuisines
KERRY ELSON AND LAUREN McKEE
STAFF WRITERS

The Orient suprised the foodies with a request: to review a restaurant featuring cross-cultural contamination. At first a little daunted by the prospect of corned beef tacos and potato tortillas, the foodies blindly accepted the challenge. After embracing Pedro's diverse past, the foodies found Pedro O'Hara's, a strange amalgam of Irish and Mexican influences. The Maine Street restaurant, despite a few kinks, should become a fun student hangout. Hey yo, lets head to Pedro's.

Pedro O'Hara's is on Maine Street and features an eclectic mix of Mexican and Irish food and beverages. (Henry Coppola, Bowdoin Orient)

The Foodies descended stairs to the basement space to see a large bar and such colorful cultural artifacts as Irish and Mexican flags, a metal sculpture of the sun (presumably from Mexico), and antique advertisements and posters. They were surrounded by the passion of sunset hues dripping on walls, tables and chairs. Pedro's alter-ego, a leaping, beer-guzzling leprechaun wearing a Mexican sombrero, beckoned the patrons further into his cozy tavern.

The place was bustling, so Foodies and friends waited for about ten minutes at small tables by the bar. They regaled one another with the printed tale of Pedro's father, an Irish chef fleeing the potato famine, who found peace amidst the Mexican hills and a culinary minded senorita. After requests, waiters promptly brought drinks and bowls of crispy tortilla chips, spicy yet canned salsa, and creamy guacamole to soothe growling stomachs. Kerry realized that Pedro's is not quite an authentic establishment when her waitress referred to the guacamole as "guac." Fearing that a mass-produced factory vat might belong to Senor O'Hara, the foodie was pleased to find the condiment made from legitimate avacodos.

The waitress then seated the Foodie party at a small, high table with equally small, high chairs that were difficult to maneuver. But Foodies and friends can sacrifice comfort for style, right? Admittedly, this place tries hard to be hip, but its efforts can sometimes fall flat. A Foodie friend's attempt to leave the table became a whole-party event; everyone had to scoot her chair further into the table, thereby knocking knees with others, or had to climb off her chair altogether in order to get out of the way. Bathroom visits became manipulative games amongst the hungry diners.

Foodies and friends chose from three different menus: "Pedro's Mexi-Fare," (Mexican/Tex-Mex offerings), "O'Hara's Grille" (hamburgers and sandwiches) and "Hearty Pub Fare" (stir-fry, steak or lamb dinners with sides). Corned beef and cabbage enticed diners in search of the fair isle, but this establishment is not so much Mexican/Irish as Mexican/Alcoholic. The Celtic influence mostly comes across in terms of beer and liquor options.

Apparently Mexico shares this love of drink; the foodies lustfully eyed frozen margaritas in the restaurant's trademark colors. Alas, as young innocents, the foodies could not sample the alcoholic beverages; however, trust them on this point: Pedro can take care of you. After a long while, Kerry's Tequila-Lime Chicken arrived hot and accompanied by beans and Pedro's "famous green rice," which is basically white rice with a lot of herbs.

The chicken was moist, tender and cooked- through, but conveyed no tequila or lime flavor. Shame, shame on false advertising. Foodie two became jealous of Kerry, for despite the missing tequila shot, the plate looked tempting. The fajita wrap proved a poor choice; the tortilla expanded beyond ceramic confines, matched the lukewarm temperature of the non- mesquite grilled chicken, and held too many canned jalapenos. In addition, its largesse could not mollify the dominant bland flavor. Eying her friends choices, she absconded with large portions of her roommate's burrito. Really, this neat little Mexican package shined as brightly as Pedro's sun sculpture. The cheese oozed nicely over a crisp tortilla and had a sharp tone which was well-balanced with freshly prepared chicken. When considering dishes from O'Hara's Mexican homeland, please order only this entrée. Enchiladas and their bland corn tortillas did not marry as well as Pedro's Mexican momma and Irish poppa.

And what are the dessert options? Oooh, perhaps a silky Mexican flan, coconut crusted fried ice cream with caramel (cajeta), honey -drenched sopapillas, some Irish bread pudding or fruit sorbet? Silly Foodies! They should have been pleased that this new establishment could offer any dessert at all (Not! Psych!). A cold, hard slice of raspberry tart, clearly enamored of Mr. Smuckers, arrived with a melting dollop of Reddy-Whip and a mint sprig. And no ice cream, either, despite firm requests. What a pity-Pedro's imagination failed in this respect. Here the restaurant's gimmick becomes apparent and strips Pedro of his bi- continental gastronomical heritage.

Despite its loose interpretations, slow service, and penchant for pre-packaged goods, Pedro O'Hara's shows promise; it's a fun place to eat with friends because of its decor, low prices, satisfying portions, and friendly, young waitstaff. If you're desperate for something that echoes Mexican food, and you're scared of Rosita's, you should stop by for some decent renditions.