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Volume CXXXII, Number 11 |
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Henry Marty is more arty than hearty
KERRY ELSON
COLUMNIST
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| The interior of Henry Marty on Maine Street is filled with delicate decorations. Unfortunately, the bistro-like atmosphere seems slightly out of place here in Brunswick. (Karsten Moran, Bowdoin Orient) |
Henry Marty restaurant on Maine Street is an anomaly. Its high prices, trendy menu items and classy décor are more fit for Portland than the relaxed Brunswick scene.
Although the Foodie had hoped Henry Marty cuisine would stand out just as its ambiance does, she left the restaurant merely satisfied. Henry Marty beats most Brunswick restaurants in its food and ambiance, but it doesn't outshine other highbrow establishments in the larger community with which it wants to compete.
Henry Marty is the quintessential pretentious bistro. It has the requisite colored paper lamps, dim overhead lighting, posters on golden-hued walls and general crisp, clean appearance that are found in "nice" restaurants.
Witty waiters wax poetic about the hints of garlic and imported olive oil in the appetizer special. Capers, goat cheese, pine nuts, kalamata olives and other trendy menu items pepper the menu, while a "ganache" may accompany some "braised" meat.
The kitchen is in plain view so patrons may feel close to the creative cooking process, the fruits of which they eagerly anticipate.
The menu itself made the Foodie salivate. After much deliberation, she finally settled upon the stuffed artichoke appetizer special and vegetable linguine.
The Foodie Friend selected penne with marinara sauce and meatballs. Descriptions on the Henry Marty menu lend dishes an exotic air; as the Foodie describes her meal now, it seems ordinary, but it sure looked like it would be unique at the time.
Henry Marty is vegan friendly; baked tofu and soy parmesan cheese are offered as substitutes in meat and cheese dishes, and most courses showcase fresh vegetables. The creative arrangement of vegetarian offerings incited the Foodie to select vegetarian dishes; those dishes just looked more appetizing. When the Foodie's friend requested the beef meatballs rather than baked tofu on his penne, he appeared to be a ravenous carnivore in the environmentally-friendly establishment.
The tender stuffed artichoke was dressed with a delicate lemon broth, in which capers and kalamata olives swam. One could spread the artichoke heart and bread crumb blend that topped the 'choke itself on toasted crostini bread.
The linguine and penne were al dente, much to the Foodie's pleasure. The vegetables that dressed her pasta were fresh and neatly prepared, while the marinara sauce over the penne was thick and pungent. Meatballs alongside the penne were not cohesive, and lacked some flavor, but the Foodie Friend nevertheless found them satisfying.
The apple tart was undercooked; the Foodie wished the crust had been browned in the oven for a few more minutes to achieve the ideal golden hue and flaky texture. The homemade maple syrup whipped cream also failed to please the Foodie because it lacked flavor.
Henry Marty distinguishes itself among other Maine Street restaurants for its pleasant ambiance and relatively unique dishes; it is ideal for a special occasion when one cannot travel far.
However, if one wishes for the truly unique dining experience that Henry Marty aspires to provide, the Foodie would advise that the patron head to Portland.
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